The European Union has taken a major step toward reducing plastic pollution with Regulation (EU) 2023/2055, which amends Annex XVII of the REACH Regulation.
Effective from 17 October 2023, this law restricts the use of synthetic polymer microparticles — commonly known as microplastics — that are intentionally added to products such as cosmetics, detergents, and fertilizers.
What Counts as a Microplastic?
A material is considered a synthetic polymer microparticle if it meets these criteria:
It is solid, insoluble in water, and made of a synthetic polymer;
It occurs as particles or as a polymer coating on particles;
The polymer content is at least 1 % by weight;
At least 1 % of the particles have dimensions ≤ 5 millimeterm or (for fibres) a length ≤ 15 millimeter with a length/diameter ratio > 3.
Particles smaller than 0.1 micrometer may be excluded if they cannot be reliably detected with current analytical methods.
What Is Not Considered a Microplastic?
The regulation provides several important exclusions. The following are not treated as microplastics:
Natural, biodegradable, or water-soluble polymers;
Polymers without carbon in their structure (e.g., inorganic materials);
Polymers permanently incorporated into solid matrices or contained so they cannot be released to the environment;
Uses in industrial settings with controlled emissions;
Certain medical, veterinary, and food products.
What Does This Mean for Cosmetic Producers?
For the cosmetics industry, this regulation is highly significant.
Plastic microbeads used in exfoliating cleansers, scrubs, and toothpaste have been banned since October 2023. Other formulations — such as makeup, nail polish, fragrance capsules, and leave-on products — are subject to phase-out periods lasting from 4 to 12 years, depending on the product category.
Cosmetic manufacturers must now reformulate products using biodegradable or natural ingredients, and update labels to declare the presence of polymers where required.
From 2026 onward, companies must also report annually to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) about the use or release of any synthetic polymers covered by the regulation.
This shift is already driving strong innovation toward eco-designed cosmetic formulations and sustainable alternatives to traditional microplastics.
The Future: Will Soluble Plastics Be Next?
Although water-soluble polymers such as PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) and PEGs are currently excluded from the microplastics definition, the discussion is evolving.
Regulators and researchers are increasingly examining how soluble and degradable polymers behave once released into the environment — especially whether they fully biodegrade or persist as dissolved residues.
Future reviews of Regulation 2023/2055 (expected around 2027–2028) may therefore:
Re-evaluate the environmental impact of soluble polymers,
Introduce testing standards for biodegradability in real-world conditions, and
Potentially extend restrictions to partially soluble or slow-degrading polymers used in cosmetics. For now, soluble polymers remain permitted — but brands should start phasing in safer, bio-based alternatives and documenting biodegradability data to stay ahead of future compliance trends.
Takeaway
Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 marks the beginning of a new era for sustainable cosmetics in Europe. Manufacturers that proactively adopt biodegradable, natural, or water-soluble ingredients, backed by transparent data and environmental claims, will not only meet future legal standards but also strengthen their reputation for clean, green beauty and environmental responsibility.